In the heart of Almagro, Parrilla Lo de Mary carries the weight of Buenos Aires history on its grill. Opened on the eve of Argentina’s 2001 economic collapse, this family-run steakhouse has endured through protests, bank runs, and pandemics — all while keeping the tradition of the parrilla alive with smoky asado de tira, indulgent matambre a la pizza, and the unmistakable spirit of resilience.

How, where, and why people are eating in Buenos Aires, Argentina, as reported by our local team. Plus our "Quick Hits" for how to have the best culinary adventures in the city.

To call the drinking of yerba mate a fixation in parts of South America would be an understatement. Yerba mate (MAH-tey) in Argentina and Uruguay is consumed regularly by an estimated 98 percent of the population, and, like tea in other countries, has social and cultural significance and rituals associated with friendship, business relationships, leisure, hospitality, etiquette and national identity. As a social ritual, mate brewing requires a bit more than just yerba, the vessel (calabaza), straw (bombilla) and hot water (80 degrees C – 175 degrees F – is the usual temperature, but around 50 degrees C or 120 degrees F is preferred); if you are in a group setting, you’ll also need to know a bit of its language of respect and solidarity.